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The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one’s own country as a foreign land.” – G.K. Chesterton

Saturday 29 March 2014

Konnichiwa from Nagoya!

Just a quick hello from the Land of the Rising Sun! It is good to be back in Japan after 3.5 years moving from this beautiful country, and this was the first thing I ate:

My first Japanese breakfast in at least 3.5 years!

This is our first visit to Nagoya, and we are having an awesome time exploring the city. Tomorrow we are off to Kyoto, which will make it our third or fourth return trip to that gorgeous city. Will post more!

Wednesday 26 March 2014

Cinque Terre (Italy) Part I: Hiking from Monterosso to Vernazza

Well, I'm busy packing for yet another trip, this time to Japan! We are really excited about our first trip back since moving from Japan 3.5 years ago, but I really ought to try and get the photos from our Europe trip out of the way. The main purpose of our trip to Italy last summer was the five villages that makes up the Cinque Terre (translates to "The Five Lands"). When we were first told in 2012 by a couple of very well-travelled relatives that we ought to make Cinque Terre on our travel list, we knew it must be an outstanding destination. Then when we found out I was expecting our second baby at the beginning of 2013, we decided that we'd better make another trip to Europe before #2 was born which would make travelling a bit more difficult. And we did a lot on that trip, visiting both France and Italy, a bit exhausting while 5-months pregnant, but I have no regrets.

The Cinque Terre is part of a national park (Italy's first national park), and the natural beauty and coastal hiking trails are a draw for many international tourists into the area. Landslides is a continuing problem in the area, and most of the hiking trails between the villages were shut for public safety during our time there. Except for one trail, between Monterosso and Vernazza, touted to be the most difficult of the four coastal trails between the villages, but also the most rewarding with the best views. It was just as well, because we had already set our minds on that trail. To be honest, I was a bit worried about doing the strenous hike, whether the boy and a 5-month-old pregnant girl could handle it. But I'm glad we did it, and all the more when we made it all the way to Vernazza! If I would change anything, it would be to start much earlier in the morning, before it got too hot (but alas, travelling with kids does slow us down quite a bit). It was safe to say that I was the only visibly pregnant woman crazy enough to take on the tough 3km trail that day, and our boy (then 4-years-old) was perhaps the youngest hiker that day. It took us 2.5 hours to complete the hike between Monterosso and Vernazza (most would finish the trail in about 1-1.5 hours), but the boy amazingly still had energy to spare for more walking, running and jumping around for the rest of the day.

Sit back, relax, and enjoy the views we enjoyed on our hike.

The beach at Monterosso, just after stepping out of the train station. Looking towards the other four villages of the Cinque Terre:

Panoramic shot of the beach at Monterosso (click image for larger view):

A clock tower in the main part of Monterosso town (which was a little walk from the train station through a tunnel under a large hill):

At the start of our hike, looking back on the little town of Monterosso:

The panoramic view from somewhere on the hiking trail, looking back on Monterosso while it was still visible. Click image for larger view:

A smoother part of the hiking trail. Hubby and I took turns between carrying the backpack and holding the boy's hand, though hubby was concerned about the boy tripping pregnant mummy, so he took on the holding hand duty a lot more. The terrain was quite rugged, and it was a steep fall a long way down in some parts:

This was our view for the better part of the hike - nothing but us and nature (click image for larger view):

A little bridge to pass over a downhill stream:

And after 2 hours of walking, BOOM! we were rewarded with this beautiful sight of Vernazza:

The view of Vernazza as we neared it:

So, so close! (Click image for larger view):

The first thing the boy did when we reached Vernazza:

Moving away from the touristy marina full of restaurants, the streets of Vernazza were also bustling with tourists (and I suppose a majority of them were hikers):

One of the many focacceria, where we bought our lunch, and carbed up after that huge hike:

No trip to Italy is complete without gelato! Here's a nut-free flavour for the boy:

I believe this flavour was named "Cinque Terre", and it was chocolatey and nutty with hazelnuts:

And thus ended our Cinque Terre hike. We reached the other towns by train, and photos of them will follow soon.

Wednesday 19 March 2014

Yummy traditional Greek @ Hellenic Republic (Brunswick), Melbourne

When we were in Melbourne a few weeks ago for my sister's wedding, we met up with my father-in-law and wife who flew down from Brisbane to see our family and meet the newest addition. My step-mother-in-law is Greek, and it was at their Greek wedding five years ago where I learned a lot about Greek cuisine and culture. Hellenic Republic was actually on my to-eat list when we were in Melbourne two years ago, but we had too little time to go through all on my list, so I was quite pleased when it was suggested we meet up for dinner at Hellenic Republic. This restaurant was opened by the highly acclaimed celebrity chef George Calombaris, who also opened the fabulous St. Katherine's and five other restaurants in Melbourne and one in Greece. Greek cuisine is not common in Hong Kong, and it had been ages since I last ate Greek food, so I looked forward to this meal with great anticipation.

Open kitchen at one end...

...and a bar at the other end:

The restaurant had a warm and cosy atmosphere, perfect for large family gatherings like ours. Service was friendly and informative, and it was easy to order food for our 5-year-old boy with multiple food allergies. His most severe reactions had been with Middle Eastern food, so we were a little nervous, but it turned out that we had nothing to worry. There are two seatings for dinner booking: 5:30pm and 7:30pm, and we could only get the earlier time slot for that Saturday. The place was full and bustling when our family arrived a little late at 6pm, and the others had already started on some pita and dips, but they were happy to re-order second servings of the same upon our arrival. We enjoyed everything from the start to finish.

Delicious local and Hellenic olives (AU$6.50):

Tyrokafteri (roasted peppers, feta, yoghurt dip, AU$10) - great flavour and perfect with toasted pita bread:

Taramosalata (white cod roe dip, AU$10). I liked this one, but hubby was not too keen on this. Smooth texture and richly flavoured:

Tyri Saganaki (Kefalograviera cheese with peppered figs, AU$14.50). This one was a nice treat. I'm not usually a fan of sheep/goat cheeses, but this one was mildly flavoured, and the peppered figs were delicious! A lovely combination of sweet, salty and spicy, and I enjoyed the chewy toasted cheese and the crunchy fig seeds:

Kipriaki Salata Dimitriakon (Cypriot salad of grains, pulses, nuts, yoghurt, AU$12). I love crunchy salads like this that are both nutty and sweet, very satisfying mouthfeel. Apologies for the blurry picture - was in a hurry to take the photo (one-handed while nursing the baby) so that the others could dig into it:

Htenia (Harvey Bay scallop, skordalia crust, AU$6 per piece) - sweet juicy scallops, done just right (and not overcooked) with a lovely crunchy topping:

Mary's Moussaka (AU$20). A hearty dish on its own, and perfect for sharing the cheesy eggplant goodness:

Horiatiki Salata (traditional village salad, AU$11.50). Aka Greek salad. A simple bowl of fresh produce and feta cheese:

Kotopoulo Psistaria (chicken from the spit, AU$25 for 350g). Yum with charry flavours from the spit:

Arni Sto Fourno (slow roasted shoulder of lamb, garlic, oregano, AU$29 for 350g) - very tender and flavourful:

Loukaniko (smoked pork and leek sausage, house made mustard, AU$10). The boy loved this sausage, and finished one whole serving on his own:

Loukoumathes (Hellenic doughnuts, honey, cinnamon, walnuts, AU$10). Honey, cinnamon and walnuts are a winning combination in a dessert:

Risogalo (rice pudding, salted caramel, shortbread crumble, pistachio, AU$8). This was nice as far as rice puddings are concerned:

Baklava Yianniotiko (baklava from Yiannena, AU$3.50) - baklavas are always too sweet for me, but this was pretty good for a baklava:

We had an enjoyable experience at Hellenic Republic

Hellenic Republic (Brunswick)
434 Lygon St
Brunswick East, VIC 3057
Australia
Tel. +61 3 9381 1222

Hellenic Republic Brunswick on Urbanspoon

Sunday 16 March 2014

Pizza dinner @ Ristorante Pizzeria Due Lune, Levanto (Italy)

After spending a beautiful Mediterranean summer's afternoon at the beach in Levanto, we went in search for the pizzeria that was recommended by the owners of the B&B we stayed at. Ristorante Pizzeria Due Lune's location at the corner of two main roads in town made it easy finding it. Europeans like to eat dinner late (closer to 9pm), so the pizzeria was close to empty when we arrived at 7pm. However it was pretty full by the time we finished with our meal, so it is clearly a favourite among the locals and tourists alike. The pizzeria has a casual and laidback atmosphere, and conducive for family dining with small children and large groups.

The patio area at the beginning of dinner service. The tables filled up quickly soon after:

Pizza Capricciosa (7&euro), with tomato, mozzarella, artichokes, mushrooms, wurstel, cooked prosciutto, olives and oregano. A good serving size with just the right amount of topping to avoid a sodden crust. Delicious:

A very simple salad, with olive oils and balsamic vinegar for dressing:

Grilled Vegetables:

Antipasto Misto di Mare (mixed seafood antipasto, 12&euro). Clockwise from top - bruschetta with mixed seafood, lemon-marinated anchovies, smoked tuna fish, octopus and potato salad, and salted anchovies. I loved the bruschetta and the potato salad:

Antipasto Misto della Casa (mixed non-seafood antipasto, 12&euro). Clockwise from top - vegetable pie, Parma ham with sgabei (fried bread), bruschetta margherita (cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, basil and garlic), spinach pie, and Provençal-style tomatoes. The vegetable pies were pretty good, and the bruschetta margherita was delicious:

Chocolate affogato for dessert (we decided against the coffee version at that time of the evening). It was just a scoop of very ordinary vanilla ice cream in some chocolate sauce, and nothing like the affogato we had earlier, but it was half the price, so we got what we paid for:

Overall, we had an enjoyable dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Due Lune. Recommended for a hearty pizza meal at an affordable price.

Ristorante Pizzeria Due Lune
Corso Roma 2
19015 Levanto
La Spezia, Italy
Tel. +39 0187 808767

Wednesday 12 March 2014

Levanto: Agriturismo La Collina Verde (B&B), and the beach!

The main destination of our trip to Italy last summer was the five villages that makes up the Cinque Terre (translates to "The Five Lands"). I remember being told about this scenic location a couple of years ago by hubby's aunt and uncle who are long-time Hong Kong residents, and it says a lot for a (very) well-travelled couple like them to recommend any place. I decided to have our base in the town of Levanto, located just north of the northernmost Cinque Terre village, and part of its territory is included in the Cinque Terre National Park. It seemed sensible to avoid the summer tourist crowds that swamp each of the five villages each day, and I'd also heard that accommodation in the towns were expensive due to scarcity, and that they were not as well-equipped as outside towns due to difficult accessibility. Levanto was a lovely town in its own right, with delicious food, easy accessibility to the Cinque Terre, and a gorgeous agriturismo B&B run by a cute couple. The word 'agriturismo' is the combined term of 'agriculture' and 'tourism', something like a farm house resort, or a farm stay. Agriturismo La Collina Verde is a quaint little house set in the hills about a 20-minute walk from the town centre and 10 from the train station. Surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and orchards, we could enjoy a peaceful and quiet rest every night after a busy day. This agriturismo is run by Rudy and Delia, a young couple whose passion for this agriturismo is evident when they talk about it.

Breakfast in the beautiful sunshine and gorgeous scenery:

Breakfast was delicious, and we loved the variety of homemade jams and marmalades. Rudy would present about five or six types of jams and marmalades at each breakfast, and they were different on each of the four days we stayed there. Rudy makes a very good cup of hot chocolate - very thick like a milkshake, but hot - and we also enjoyed the cappuccinos. In addition to the cornetto (aka croissant to our boy), focaccia and jams on our table outside on the patio, we helped ourselves to the food and drinks in the pantry inside the kitchen. The highlights were the variety of homembaked pizza-like focaccia with various toppings. The breakfast spread was relatively simple but nutritious, and it fueled us well for our busy activities ahead.

Five jams and marmalades, on day 1 of our stay:

The breakfast pantry by the kitchen, with cool drinks, eggs, bread, cheese, some Italian-style cold cuts, cakes and fresh fruits:

Every evening we would return to our room to a different type of digestif on the table, which was a nice touch. Our room at the back of the property was very quiet, but the Wifi signal wasn't good there. However everything else was good, the bed was comfortable, the room was clean, and we slept well every night we were there. Highly recommended as a base to see Cinque Terre, Portovenere and Portofino!

Agriturismo La Collina Verde
Località Sant'Anna, 6
19015 Levanto
La Spezia, Italy
Tel. +39 393 636 7653

We spent our first afternoon in Levanto exploring the town and hanging out at the beach. There were many beachgoers enjoying the sun, sand and water, and I must have stood out as the only Asian there, with a round 5-months pregnant belly to boot. The beach was nice, but nowhere as beautiful as the beaches back home in Perth and basically all along the coastline in Western Australia. It's funny how we could only fully appreciate Perth beaches after living and travelling extensively overseas.

Levanto, where the green hills meets the sea, literally:

The boy having fun with the gritty coarse sand (nothing like the fine sandy beaches in Perth, but the boy knew no better and gleefully played with the sand):

A flower that I've never seen before:

A panorama of the beach at Levanto (click image for larger view):

Thursday 6 March 2014

Great burger and salad @ Ziggy's Eatery, Melbourne (Australia)

We were in Melbourne a couple of weeks ago, but I was so busy with wedding-related stuff that there was no time to just hang out and work through an eating itinerary. The bridal party (and respective families) had to do a rehearsal the day before my sister's big day, and everyone was hungry for lunch by the time we were done. We walked to the nearby restaurant strip on Carlisle Street, and found Ziggy's Eatery which had a table large enough for our group of 10 adults and 5 kids (though it was still a tight squeeze). It's a very casual eatery, offering wraps, burgers and salads that cost between AU$8.90 and AU$15.90. I thought it was quite expensive as it cost us almost AU440 to feed our family of three, but the quality was good and the food was scrumptious. The service was also friendly and helpful, which made it pretty easy to order for our 5-year-old who has multiple food allergies.

A small order of Wings (six wings, AU$7.90) for the boy. There was a choice of three sauces (original/hoteriyaki/smoky-BBQ), and we chose the only one that was not spicy:

Hubby chose the Zed Steak Burger (AU$12.90; chips and drink for an extra AU$4.50) - grilled scotch fillet, aioli and Ziggy's BBQ sauce, in a brioche bun with cheese, tomato, grilled onion and lettuce. A big thumbs up from hubby who loved his choice. The sauce made it messy eating, but it no doubt increased the juiciness and flavour factors by manyfold:

I went healthy and selected the Diablo Salad (AU$13.50) - spicy marinated chicken, chipotle dressing and green tomatillo salsa. All the salads are served with lettuce, tomato, carrot, beetroot, Spanish onion, Kalamata olives, feta and light French vinaigrette. The Diablo Salad was delicious, and not too spicy; however, about halfway through my salad, I realised that there were no olives and feta in there. The kitchen quickly rectified the missing ingredients, with minimal fuss:

This gloriously messy face is testament to how good the wings were (we were given six wet wipes with our food, and those came in very handy indeed!):

Ziggy's Eatery
195 Carlisle St
Balaclava, VIC 3183
Australia
Tel. +61 3 9531 4071

Ziggys Eatery on Urbanspoon